Val d’Isere has one of the liveliest apres-ski scenes in the Alps. The resort’s reputation for combining excellent on-mountain skiing with a genuinely good time off the slopes is well founded, and the range of venues means there is something for every taste and budget. Whether you want to go hard from four o’clock onwards or prefer a relaxed dinner and an early night in your own catered chalet, Val d’Isere delivers.
La Folie Douce
No discussion of apres-ski in Val d’Isere is complete without mentioning La Folie Douce. Located at the top of the La Daille gondola at 2,100 metres, it is one of the most famous mountain bars in the Alps. The formula involves a combination of live music, DJ sets, dancing on the tables and a very particular atmosphere that builds through the afternoon and reaches a peak around five o’clock.
La Folie Douce divides opinion. Those who love it describe it as an essential Alpine experience. Those who prefer their apres-ski slightly more restrained find it overwhelming. There is no middle ground. Visit once to form your own view, and consider the timing carefully as the final gondola back to the village runs at a set time.
The Village Bars
The main street in Val d’Isere has several bars that fill up from around four o’clock as skiers come off the mountain. Bananas is one of the longest-established and has a loyal following of British visitors. Cocorico is another popular option, known for its lively atmosphere and decent cocktail list.
The Grizzly Bar and Pacific Bar are slightly more relaxed and attract a slightly older crowd who have perhaps moved on from the table-dancing phase of their skiing careers. The quality of bar food at most of these venues has improved considerably in recent years and many visitors combine an early drink with something to eat before heading back to their accommodation.
Dining in Val d’Isere
The restaurant scene in Val d’Isere is strong and covers a good range of price points. At the upper end, La Table de l’Ours at Hotel Les Barmes de l’Ours holds a Michelin star and offers refined French cuisine in an exceptional setting. Booking well in advance is essential for the main season weeks.
For something more relaxed, Ferme de l’Adroit serves excellent Savoyard food in a traditional setting. The tartiflette, raclette and fondue are all done well and the atmosphere is warm and convivial. This is the kind of restaurant that makes you want to come back to the Alps year after year.
La Becca on the mountain at La Daille is worth a lunch stop. The views are exceptional and the food is well above average for a mountain restaurant. On a clear day, eating on the terrace here is one of the great simple pleasures of a ski holiday.
Evening Entertainment
Val d’Isere has a cinema, several chalet-style restaurants with live music and a bowling alley for evenings when tired legs make the thought of another night out seem unappealing. The casino on the main street is small but provides an entertaining diversion for those who want something different.
Live music appears across several venues during the main season. The quality varies considerably, but finding a bar with a decent band playing covers at a reasonable volume is not difficult. The Pub is one of the more reliably musical venues and serves a good range of beers alongside its entertainment.
Non-Skiers and Rest Days
Val d’Isere caters reasonably well for non-skiers and for those taking a day off the mountain. The village has a good spa at the main sports centre, and several hotels offer spa facilities to non-residents for a fee. The pool at the Centre Aquasportif is popular and provides a welcome change from ski boots and cold air.
Snowshoeing and cross-country skiing are both available and provide a more gentle alternative to the main ski area. Guided snowshoe walks take you into terrain that is inaccessible by any other means and give a completely different perspective on the mountain.
Practical Notes for Apres-Ski
Val d’Isere is not a cheap resort. Drinks prices are significantly higher than UK bar prices and a night out in the main bars can become expensive quickly if you are not paying attention. Agree a budget before you go out and consider pre-loading slightly at the chalet or apartment to reduce the bill in the bars.
The village becomes much more manageable on foot than most visitors expect. Everything is relatively close together and taxis are rarely necessary within the main village area. The free shuttle bus between La Daille and the main village runs regularly until late and is worth using rather than walking the full distance after an evening out.
